María José Huertas
Gáname de Sayago, halfway between Bermillo and Pereruela. That's where one of the most renowned wine tasters on the national scene was born. From a town of a hundred inhabitants in Zamora to Madrid's Calle Alcalá; from hostess to sommelier, all in one casino. Such is the roulette wheel of life.
From a land rich in wines, but with no family tradition in this world, our protagonist, who began hesitantly in the world of sommelier at the dawn of the 21st century —25 years ago— is now part of that ever-growing group of women leading the wine universe in our country.
Today, Mariá José Huertas, the main "nose" of the two-star restaurant Paco Roncero in Madrid, talks to us about her life and work:
Hello María José, do you often visit your hometown of Zamora? Do you have any favorite bars in the city of Zamora?
Well, I visit my hometown less often than I'd like, but always for at least ten days in August, and sometimes during Holy Week too.
My favorite places in Zamora are Lasal and La Salita, on Calle de los Herreros.
In your day-to-day work, you'll have many foreign clients to whom you propose national pairings. Do you follow a method or order?
Sí, trato de hacer un recorrido por lo más más emblemáticos de España, nunca pasando de siete vinos. Empezamos con una manzanilla o un fino, luego un par de blancos, uno más ligero (por ejemplo, Albariño) y otro con más cuerpo (uno de La Mancha en barrica). Depués un Rioja rosado muy viejo para mostrar una imagen diferente de esta región. En tintos, pasamos por uno ligero, por ejemplo, un vino de garnacha de la Sierra de Gredos, y un Ribera potente. Lo último es un moscatel dulce de Málaga.
Do you have any hobbies outside of the restaurant?
Fencing is my favorite sport, and I practice it whenever I can and when my schedule allows. It's a sport that's unfortunately little known and practiced in Spain, despite being the only Olympian of Spanish origin.
Also, I love to travel, whether for leisure or wine-related reasons.
We know the famous varieties, but there are also Juan García, Rufete, Prieto Picudo... As a wine consumer, do you have a preference for any variety?
I have a preference for any wine I haven't tried, about which I know less, and I don't mind surprises. Trying a different wine, with a rarer grape or from a lesser-known region, doesn't always mean it's going to be good or that you'll like it. But for me, it's essential to try any wine from any variety and corner of the world, as well as from different production methods. It enriches me greatly.
You won first place in the Top 100 Sommeliers of Spain. How did it feel to receive recognition from your professional colleagues?
Well... the truth is, it was one day, one moment, and really, an entire year because the excitement, emotion, and gratitude were so overwhelming that words cannot describe them. Especially because that day, more than the Top 1 award, what I received was so much affection from the entire profession. And after so many years, well, it's the most beautiful thing, it's what you're left with; sharing so much with good friends and colleagues and learning from them.
When you go out to eat, do you consider yourself a good eater? Do you go with the flow or are you picky?
No way! I'm the worst eater in the world because I don't eat anything raw, and it's what's in fashion now (in my personal opinion, maybe raw food is even a bit overused these days...). At one wine dinner where almost the entire menu was raw, I suffered quite a bit because I was embarrassed to say I don't eat anything raw, so I just ate bread with olive oil so I could taste the wines...
What's your favorite movie?
One of my favorite movies is Life is beautiful , along with its soundtrack. Another movie I love is The Fencing Master because, well, I think it gives a good overview of this sport.
Which famous figure and in which Madrid neighborhood would you go for a few wines?
I'd go with many past or present-day figures, but look, I'm going down a notch and would go with my boss, Paco Roncero, who wasn't that fond of wine, but I'm slowly introducing him to the world. Fortunately, we could go to any area of Madrid (Chamartín, Retiro, Centro, La Latina, etc.) where there are already some great tapas and wine places.
Can we apply the word "craft" to your pairing or tasting process?
I don't know how much it's about craftsmanship, but I try to be very practical when pairing, harmonizing, or recommending wines. On the one hand, a cuisine as delicate as Paco Roncero's must be taken into account, in terms of flavors and textures, and on the other, we can never forget that the customer's taste comes first. If a diner wants to have a delicate dish with a powerful red wine because it's the one they like, I'm never going to argue with them in the slightest. I try to find the wine that best matches the dish but never override the customer's taste or preference.
Our previous guest, Tomás Alía, left this question for the next guest: "Are you aware of the importance of the hallmarks and uniqueness of our country in your work? Does your work consistently highlight this?"
Well, in my case, yes, I do. I attach great importance to Spanish wines and I sell them with great care. I have a wine pairing exclusively for Spanish wines, and also, since the restaurant's clientele is 80% foreign, Spanish wine is often ordered.
How do you imagine your life without wine?
My life without wine would be very boring, but especially because of the good times, laughter, and conversations that happen around it because I always try to drink it with friends.
Could you leave us a question for the next guest?
Yes. What wine would you drink with me and where?
